East of the city centre, the neighbouring districts of Katong and Joo Chiat form the heartland of Peranakan Singapore. This is where pastel shophouses line quiet streets, where laksa was reinvented, and where a unique culture born of migration still lives on in food, fashion and family homes. Half a day here reveals a completely different side of the city.
Who are the Peranakans?
The Peranakans, also called Baba-Nyonya, are descendants of Chinese immigrants who settled in the Malay archipelago centuries ago and married local Malay women. The result is a culture unlike any other: Chinese ancestral traditions blended with Malay language, dress and cooking, later seasoned with European influences from the colonial era. Men are called Baba and women Nyonya, and although the community is small, it has shaped much of Singapore's identity, from its cuisine to its architecture.
Koon Seng Road: the pastel postcard
The most photographed street in the district is Koon Seng Road, where a row of two-storey shophouses painted in mint, pink, lavender and turquoise has become an icon of Singapore. Look closely at the details: hand-painted ceramic tiles, wooden shutters, ornate plasterwork and recurring motifs of phoenixes and peonies, symbols of prosperity and marital happiness. Come early in the morning for soft light and empty pavements. This is a residential street, so photograph with respect for the people who live here.
Nyonya cuisine: laksa, buah keluak and kueh
Peranakan cooking is one of the world's first true fusion cuisines. The most famous local dish is Katong laksa: rice noodles in a rich, spicy coconut gravy, served with the noodles cut into short pieces so a spoon is all you need. The classic address is 328 Katong Laksa on East Coast Road. Braver eaters should order ayam buah keluak, chicken stewed with black Indonesian nuts that taste earthy and almost truffle-like. For dessert, hunt down kueh: colourful bite-sized cakes such as layered kueh lapis or coconut-filled ondeh-ondeh, sold in traditional shops all over Joo Chiat.
Craft and heritage shops
Kim Choo Kueh Chang has been making nyonya rice dumplings since 1945 and runs a small heritage gallery and occasional hands-on workshops above the shop. A few doors away, Rumah Bebe occupies a 1928 shophouse and sells hand-embroidered kebaya blouses and intricately beaded slippers, and the owner still teaches the craft herself. Both places are as much living museums as they are shops.
Museums for the full story
To understand the objects behind the culture, visit the Peranakan Museum on Armenian Street in the city centre, home to one of the finest collections of Peranakan artefacts in the world, spread across three floors, from wedding regalia to porcelain. Back in the east, The Intan is a private home-museum crammed floor to ceiling with antiques, visited by appointment over tea with its passionate owner, who tells the story behind every piece.
Practical tips
- Plan around half a day for Katong and Joo Chiat, ideally timed around a laksa lunch.
- There is no MRT station in the heart of Katong: take a bus from the city, ride-hail with Grab, or walk about 15 minutes from Marine Parade or Eunos stations depending on your route.
- Combine the visit with East Coast Park next door: rent a bicycle, walk the beach promenade or stay for a chilli crab dinner at the seafood centre.
- Most heritage shops close by early evening, and some museums shut on Mondays, so check opening days before you go.